Here is a picture of the chapel.
Here is a picture of the stairs that go up to the primary room and one other classroom
a record of my ups and downs...
Never smile. Stare off into space or straight ahead. This can be particularly awkward if the metro is very crowded. If you have the luxury of finding a seat, congratulations. Now people will squeeze on and hold the bar directly over where you are sitting and all around you. This makes staring off into space incredibly difficult. Instead you find yourself staring at peoples belt buckles or belly buttons, neither of which seem socially acceptable in metro culture. Simply close your eyes. That's your only option. Sorry. If you didn't get a seat you must stand. The personal space that even I, warm-hearted American farmgirl, require is severly compromised. I recently found myself standing bum to bum with the person behind me. I don't mean close. I mean my bottom was actually touching a complete stranger's and we had to ride along that way for some time. And at the same time the person sitting on the bench in front of me was staring at my belt buckle. Awkward.
Because the next train won't arrive for 3 hours the sisters suggest that we take a different train that leads us a little closer to our destination and then catch a local taxi to the pottery factory. It is a long way from the train station to find a marchuka (taxi-van) to take us to the factory. 


Now you would think that after many rich (relatively speaking) americans come into your store and spend many rubles and one of those customers (my sister, Renee) needs a bathroom desperately you would try to help. The proprietor does exactly the opposite. She seems shocked and even a little offended by the question. She insists that there is no bathroom in the back of her shop. Renee keeps holding it.
and beautiful gardens.
This is a time to see the Russian countryside and talk to the missionaries. Even though my feet are killing me and I'm worried about my sister who keeps muttering things like "Doesn't anyone here ever need to go to the bathroom?" and my mom who is very tired I have to say I still enjoyed the walk. The sisters explain that this is a typical Russian experience. And this is exactly what I was hoping to have here in Russia. While I definitely want to see their beautiful tourist attractions, I care more about meeting the people and catching a glimpse of life as they experience it. And this lack of any bit of convenience while enjoying their beautiful countryside is a real taste of life here. So are the yummy tomatoes and cucumbers we buy from a woman selling them from her backyard. When asked about a bathroom she shakes her head but then, with great kindness, she explains that her neighbor who lives next door is out of town and that my sis can go to the bathroom in THE NEIGHBOR'S BACK YARD. Think about the last time you left town and ask your neighbor to watch over your house. I'm telling you, you never know what you may have missed. Renee thanks her and holds it.













Legend has it that Vacili III (1400's) had a beautiful church built for himself and spent the summers. We can see the Moscow River and across it the city skyline including some blue onion-topped roofs associated with the Russian Orthodox Church.
We can't enter Vacili's cathedral so we admire its white-plastered walls and mossy foundation from outside. 
We do, however enter 2 other churches in the park. All of the women wear scarves on their heads while inside. Reverent people stand quietly in front of pictures of Saints light skinny candles. One shriveled little lady kneels after crossing herself thrice. I look away trying to give her privacy to worship in this very public place. Another well-dressed middle-aged man looks at a picture of the madonna holding baby Jesus. He, too crosses himself 3 times and then kisses the feet of both the mother and babe, you guessed it, 3 times. I am fascinated by a room barred by folding wooden barricades. Inside are more pictures of saints. Three wrinkley ladies wear blue workdresses and scarves. They rub the wax off brassy candleholders. One carries a metal scrub bucket. They talk quietly and work. I wonder how far they have walked today on their ancient legs to perform this menial task.


I am struck as couple after couple come in, gray-headed and vibrant. Through the course of the meal I feel awed by the power and goodness radiating from 8 sixty-something couples. I wonder about the different lives they've led. Collectively they seem VERY happy. This seems in such contrast to the many sober-faced people I see walking along every street and on every corner. I wonder if the Russians I see are as sober as they look. Do they not smile because I am an American and my country has a reputation for arrogance? Are they a collectively sad people as they try to leave behind the weight of communism? These are other things I wonder about. I wish they could feel my admiration for them with their worn-out sneakers and colorful high heels. Inside my head I am calling out, "Keep going! Your country is lovely. I like your faces. I can feel your strength. Keep going!"

